Fitted new radiator to my 1997 323ise and the temp guage keeps rising even idling, water circulating ok help?
Answers:
I assume that the car was running hot before and this prompted the radiator replacement. The thermostat should always be replaced when doing this kind of repair. You cannot visually tell if a thermostat is good or bad. Another thing to check is the cooling fan. Be sure it is working. If not, the problem can be either the fan, the sensor, or the control module, if so equipped. If none of this solves your problem, then look at the exhaust to see if an unusual amount of white smoke or steam is present. If so, then a blown head gasket may be the culprit. Good luck!
Did you put the thermostat in backwards? Otherwise, if water is circulating then you have a head gasket problem. look for tiny bubbles in the radiator which indicate compression from the engine.
could be air lock drain system and refill slowly
Sounds as though it may be your thermostat if that isnt working properly then it wont turn the fan on when it needs to thus resulting in rising temperature
Bunch of variables here. Did you monkey with the thermostat ? If so, sounds as if its in backwards. Make SURE you have all the air out of system by draining and adding . After that, have guage checked. If it is registering Hot and you can lay hand on radiator its either bad or see my first idea.
Is your cooling-fan cutting in correctly? The engine temperature will rise as it idles as there is no airflow through the radiator. If the cooling fan doesn't cut in and out periodically then it will get hot.
If the fan is working OK, then you have a thermostat problem or something more serious such as head gasket. Water pumps can 'appear' OK but be worn away inside, or starting to break-up inside. I've seen some where the impellers are half the size they should be where they have been eroded. That will lead to poor coolant flow.
sounds like your new radiator isnt the right one.if thats the only thing you changed & now theres a related problem-thats your problem.
well im sure if your sharp enough to replace the radiator then you probally also replacef the t-stat.there are two things you could try to aid your cause,look at your engine up at the top cylinder head area there is a temp sending unit,remove this while the engine is cold proceed to fill your cooling system till it starts running out .this will insure the block and head are now full of coolant.start car and see how it does.
if for any reason this does not work try removing the t-stat and see if that solves it.sometimes after market t-stats dont fare well in imports.last but not least pull the water pump to make sure your impeller blade has not fallen off or worse yet corroded off.
then if none of that works you may consider having your colling system ckd for pressense of exhaust gasses.which would indicate a weeping or blown head gasket
You'll need to bleed the air out of the system. To do so remove the small bleeder screw next to the radiator cap. Then fill the radiator normally/slowly till the bleeder hole is full all the way to the top and not bubbling anymore. At this point your radiator will be full. Just install cap and your done. The excess will burp out. Run your car with the temp set to hot and go for a drive. I like to snap on and off of the throttle. It helps to get the water through the heater core. If it's blowing hot your done.
The temp guage will rise while the car is idling. However, once you reach a certain temperature the radiator fan should kick on and bring the temp back down. The fan only kicks on when air flow through the radiator is low so if you are driving, your fan will likely never come on.
Also, you should "burp" the coolant system. Run the car with the radiator cap off. This will allow any air pockets that have developed in the system to come to the top and escape, thus allowing you to have only water/coolant in your system.
You should also check the percentage of coolant and make sure that it is the proper percentage of coolant/water for your car.
the radiator and a pressure or air release screw. It is plastic and has a Phillips head.but do not use a Phillips screwdriver.use a large regular/Flathead. Remove the screw, start the engine and while running fill the radiator..this will allow all of the air to escape.
Remove the thermostat,if temperature continues to rise then either air lock in system ,or cooling fan is not cutting in from temperature sensor switch.
If temperature OK refit stat correct way round.
Also does radiator boil over?If not could simply be temperature gauge or sender fault.
If you have bleed the system correctly
Take the rad cap off, increase the engine revs. You should see a steady flow of water increasing as you increase the the revs, if you dont.remove the water pump, you will proberly find the the plastic vanes are broken
BEFORE YOU GET CARRIED AWAY WITH RESTRIP AND DOING EVERYTHING COMPLICATED AND TIME CONSUMING AND MONEY WASTING..
JUST LOOSEN THE BLEEDER SCREW AND WHILST CAR ENGINE RUNNING. IF ITS THAT.. U WILL GET SOME PRESSURE RELEASE AND TEMP WILL START COMING DOWN IN A MINUTE OR TWO.. GOOD LUCK.
I have a 1997 528i that had an overheating problem. It turned out to be a hairline crack in the thermostat housing.The housing is plastic and costs about $33.00. but, a lot of labor. Good luck.
One of your hoses may be clogged. The radiator may be defective, where did ya get it? The dash may need to be reset, BMW is famous for wanting all the work done to thier cars to be done by them. Thats why there are so many things that must be reset by BMW. Good Luck
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