Why is my car making a ticking noise..?
Answers:
Pebble in the tyre groove?
your oil is either low or you need to change it. oil loses its density and your lifters start chattering like a type writer or clock, stone caught in the tread of the tire will make it do that too.
You bought it from a suicide bomber
Check your tyres for nails or tar. This would cause it.
Check your oil???
Tappetts.
Not serious. Minor adjustment.
Have a go yourself!
if it was making the noise when you got it then you would have heard it as you are doing now.
it could be anything, book it into the garage and have them remove all the wheels and see what they find
Agreed, or could be a nail in the tyre. I also had a boss who had something similar, turned out that he swapped his spare at the weekend, and didn't tighten the wheel nuts enough. One had worked loose and was rattling around under the wheel cover.
A BOMB : O
Nah its just maybe something on the whell trim/tyres?
Its a clicking noise so it has to be with a moving part.
E.G Wheels, tyres, Aerial lol
I dunno. Wheres the noise coming from?
The bogey man
Sounds like a CV joint, not very expensive to fix. Normally makes a noise on full lock though.
Check to see if there is anything stuck in the tred of your tryes.
A word of advice..
Go to one garage to get a diagnosis but another to get the work done!
The 2nd garage will say if the 1st garge was speaking shyte etc
It could be the mud flat rubbing the inside of the wheel or a wheel bearing,take it to a mechanic and get it checked out;they shouldn't charge you anything for taking a quick look at it and it would put your mind at ease !
you need oil, it is your tappets. is probably stops when the oil sloshes to one side of the engine and gets thrown up to the top.. my skoda my golf and my frontera does that.
are your brakes ok mine makes a noise when my brakes are wet you could have a hard part on the pad that just needs to bed in
Almost for sure sounds like the speedometer cable. It might not have shown up the last time the car was in the garage, especially if the mechanic did not take it out for much of a test ride. Even then the problem could have been brand new.
Depending on the car, the cost will probably be minimal. If you have an acquaitance with a car, do a mileage comparison. Each of you go a route in your own cars. Make sure you each follow the same route. Go at least five miles and then compare your odometers. They sould both read the same distance traveled, within about a half mile or so. If not, the speedometer is even more surely the culprit.
If you find this is so, you can call various mechanics to get a good estimate for the repair. When you find a mechanic you can trust, be sure to tell him you THINK that it is the cable. You cannot be sure, and I cannot be sure, sitting here in front of our computers. Let him determine the real problem and then get the estimate in writing.
Not much urgancy as the car will run fine without the speedometer. You risk a ticket if you do not monitor your speed.
check the (tappets, wheels b/rings and c/shaft), needs to adjusted or renewed & for perfact results 100% sure
It would have been a vast amount of help to be told what car it was but the symptoms you describe are classic. You have bad Constand Velocity Joint(s) known as CV Joints for short. These are standard issue on front wheel drive cars and there are four of them, two on each side.
Front wheel drive vehicles have transaxles the give motion to the front wheels while the back wheels simply follow along for the ride. There are two axle assemblies in a front wheel drive car; one exits the transaxle on the right and the other exits on the left. Since the front wheels must turn left to right, and bounce up and down, the axles must be able to turn the wheel while also being able to move about in almost all directions. They allow this motion through the use of CV Joints, two per axle. One joint sits near the transaxle (inside joint) while the other joint sits just inside the wheel knuckle (outside joint).
The outside joint gets the most wear as it is the one that bears the most movement in all directions. the inner joint rarely fails because it just dampens out any potential movement to ensure the shaft entering the transaxle is allowed to only rotate. If it moved in any other direction it would damage transaxle axle seals and internal gears that have minimal backlash or clearance.
Yes, shops will replace the outer joint for you but this job isn't cheap by any means. Generally, $75 to replace a joint. Here's the rub. auto parts stores sell the whole axle with TWO new joints on it for $50 to $100 depending on the make/model of your car. If it were me and I wasn't the shade tree mechanic that I am, I would call the auto shops and find one that will replace the whole axle assembly with one that you provide them. Or, with your newfound knowledge, have them do the whole thing for you for the price of the axle plus the same amount of labor charge they would have charged you for the one joint.
Doing this will get you TWO new joints and you won't be bothered with an inboard joint failure later. The new axle assembly will probably have lifetime warranty too.
The real clencher of a problem is in your determining which side of the car the clicking is coming from. have a friend help you. Roll down both windows and listen carefully. The reason the clicking stops when turning is because the different forces are applied to the joint when it is not straight and the internal surfaces are moving to a different position. one that's not worn out. When you resume a straight path, the joint returns where it has spent most of it's life and that area is worn out! It can get plenty more worn before you have a serious problem assuming you drive the vehicle in a calm fashion. Quick starts, spinning tires, etc. will expedite the failure of these joints.
There is no real need to replace both axle assemblies though the shop may recommend it. I cannot blame them because the other axle has just as many miles on it and is bound to fail sometime. he just doesn't want an angry customer coming back to him with another clicking problem and then have to convince you that there are two such axles in the car. Doing two would double the cost of your repairs and the second axle might not fail for 50,000 miles! Your call though. If you want trouble free performance and you have the money. strike a deal with the shop for doing both.
Good luck!
Does it make the noise when the vehicle is stopped? If not try to tell if its coming from a wheel, if you can find out which wheel, look in the tread(grooves in the tire that touch the pavement) and look for a nail or a rock that might be stuck in the tire, very common. If you see nothing, try to take the wheel off, sometimes a rock can get stuck in the wheel or between the brake pads and rotor.
I had this problem with my escort solved problem by changing oil,oil filter air filter&spark plugs.i think it was the tappets .so just drain the sump and renew the oil & filter
you pi$$ed someone off now there gonna blow up you car lol
only thing i know it could be is your trans but really i need to know where the noise is coming from
Bet you a £1.00 its something stuck in one of your tyres!
The fact it stops when you turn a corner makes it almost certain to be in a front tyre too!
Get someone to jack the car up and check all round the tyre treads for anything stuck in there.
Should cost you less than the pound you owe me for the bet!!!
Sounds like the tappets need adjusting. Its not terminal, just annoying.
probably your engine is running
You might have left a clock inside it.
It is some thing to do with your brakes a quick test is to slightly press your brake pedal and see if the noise goes
you can also try pulling up your h/brake slightly if the noise stop the fault is on the wheels the h/brake works
Yikes! Check the oil. If it is fine, you are OK. Sounds like a valve adjustment is in your future. Not too expensive..
I agree with both the foriegn object in tire or CV joints, Get under it and check the boots if they broke open then a quick fix but not permanent would be get a grease gun and pack it full in the hole of the boot again its not permanent. Check tires and CV boot.
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