Spray painting disaster!?
Do you think I can sand this back and relaquer without having the same problem or will I have to strip back and start again?
HELP!
Answers:
o.k. so you used a base/clear system, its the best you can buy. by now your 12 hour window has closed for a quick scuff and re-clear. you need to let it dry for a few days 2-3 should be good. then wet sand with 400 the area that needs recleared, only sand till it's smooth dont go down to the base coat, if you do youll have to re-paint that panel. tape and re mask everything you are not going to clear. make sure everything is bone dry. you need to tack off everything at this point. mix your clear to mfg. specs. and spray 1 wet coat, remember to follow a pattern, if you spray the same spot too many times youll have sags or runs. if it does run dont touch it, leave that spot alone it has enough clear let this flash for 25 min. spray 1 more wet coat and let it dry. for best results let it dry overnight then untape. if you want a glasslike shine wait 30 days for the clear to cure then wetsand with 1500 or 2000 then buff, youll love it.
Sorry, but you're only fooling yourself if you don't take it back to the shiny steel, etch prime it, paint it and then re-laquer. I've been lately using a really good range of aerosol paints, which have come on so far from the crap they I used to get from Halfords. I particularly like a Gunmetal/Anthracite colour, and have used it on a few cars. The particulate is VERY fine, and I can honestly say, I can't do better with my spray gear. And here's the thing, I'm not laquering it. Nope. I leave it a week, then give a mildly abrasive polish and a rich wax, and it looks great. Laquer, full of thinners, can cause so many problems, such as reactions, dissolution, or pickling. And you can't T-cut back a couple of years later, if you want to. Screw laquer!
At least its only the roof, sorry mate but your going to have to strip and start again.
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