Wintering an outboard motors?
Answers:
Tools and Materials Needed
Gather the following materials and tools before starting:
13/16 Spark Plug Socket
Needle Nose Pliers
Very Large Flat Blade Screwdriver
Medium Flat Blade Screwdriver
Saw Horse
Lower Unit Grease Pump
Water Hose adapter
Paper plates, paper towels, plastic garbage bag
Hypoid 90 Lower Unit Grease
Fogging Oil aerosol spray
Fuel stabilizer
Procedure
Warm Up Mount the engine on a saw horse or other support. Remove Cover. Pull cord from starter and knot cord at recoil mechanism. Remove pull handle. Remove cover from engine. Re-install pull handle on engine, sans cover. Connect the water adapter to garden hose. Mount hose adapter to engine water intake. Turn on water hose. Connect gas to engine. Start engine and run at moderate throttle until warm.
Run Out Disconnect fuel line from engine. Let engine run out fuel from carburetor. As engine starts to stall, spray fogging oil into carburetor. (Don't use the tube adapter, just the nozzle spray.) Count "1001, 1002, 1003", for timing duration of spray. Engine smokes (from oil). Engine eventually runs out of gas and stalls. Disconnect gas line. Turn hose off. Remove hose adapter from engine.
Direct lubrication Remove spark plug. Spray fogging oil (via tube) into cyclinder. Replace spark plug. Operate pull start several times to spread oil.
Lower Unit lubrication Place paper plate under engine to receive oil discharge. Remove drain/fill screw, carefully recovering the washer and screw. (This requires a very large flat blade screwdriver.) Open bleed screw. (This requires smaller screwdriver.) Allow engine to drain for several minutes. Tilt motor to drain completely. If grease appears milky color, this indicates presence of water in grease, which may mean leaking seals on propellor shaft. Wipe away old grease. Connect grease pump. (Note the FORCE engine has different thread than Mercury, so pump only threads on about a quarter turn.) Re-fill lower unit with new lubricant, until grease oozes from bleed screw. Tighten bleed screw. Remove pump and quickly replace with fill/drain screw and washer. Tighten fill/drain screw.
Clean Up Allow engine to sit upright for a few minutes to drain any fluids. Wipe off lower unit. Lubricate other areas of engine with Lithium Grease or other appropriate material. Re-install cover, reversing procedure with pull handle. Move engine to storage position. Allow to drain additional fluids. Wipe engine clean. Store for winter. Throw oily paper plates in plastic garbage bag and dispose.
Fuel Storage Add appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer to remaining gasoline/oil in tank.
Spring Start Up
When starting engine in spring, the heavy oil content may foul the spark plug. Replace the plug after initial run has cleared oil from cyclinders. Save the fouled plug for the next year's winterization.
flush with muffs and take caseing of and grease up various areas that you can see wd forty plugs and cover for winter and repeat when you use it again.
Depending on the age and condition of your boat there can be dozens of maintenance and safety precautions you can perform, but here are four major steps necessary.
-First, Change the oil in the lower unit or the out-board's Gear-case. Don't forget, you need to fill from the bottom upward.(two screw plugs, one on the very bottom and on the side of the shaft about half way up.
-Next spray some Anti-Fowling or Fogging foam/lube. with the engine running, into all of the air intakes.(at the top of your motor near the spark plugs)
-You'll want to replace the spark plugs depending on how much time you used it.
-Get some STA-BIL fuel stabilizer in your gas tanks. This is very important !
These are just the some basics though very important. Use common sense when closing it up such as, don't leave any standing water in the bilge and there's no such thing as too much lubrication everywhere i.e., steering and throttle units including the cable lines. Don't forget the trailer, the wheel bearings always need grease !
Most all materials needed you can get at your local marina or on-line from places like West-marine or Boaters World. Talk to them with your questions. Oh and
Lastly, Get a For Sail sign on it, It's time to upgrade !
wow there is some detail there well done fellas
never run your engine out of gas! Put fuel stabilizer in a tank of fuel run that into the engine. While running fuel stabilizer into the engine either have the engine sitting in a bat of radiator fluid or hook a hose up to the flush point on the engine(you will need a bilge pump for this) to push out excess watter and dilute all other water in the engine. Then change your oil in the main part of the engine and in the lower unit. The lower unit is really important because it will most likely have a half a cup or more of water in it depending on the age and size of the motor. A half a cup of water would however be enough to crack your lower unit. make sure u fill the lower unit from the bottom up. Finally spray your carburetor with storage sealant to prevent corrosion. If your engine is fuel injected spray the air intake.
OK to leave the fuel in the carb. of the Yamaha as it is only petrol and will evaporate off but the2.5 merc is probably on pre-mix which will clog the jets if allowed to evaporate off over winter so needs to be run until the carb.is empty.
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