How do you plaster board a wooden ceiling?
I want to plaster board between the exposed beams directly on to the underside of the first floor boards
Answers:
I would screw a batten to either side of the joist 4-5 inches down from the top and then screw plasterboard (plasterboard screws) to them. I have done this in my cottage, leaves inch or two of joist exposed below, Compared to plasterboarding and skimming over the whole of the underside of the joists it is a pain in the **** but if you want original timbers exposed, SUFFER!, like I did! . it's much more time consuming. lol. Oh, and for finishing your beams, danish oil is favourite.
screw a batton just below floor board , nail plaster board to it
Secure battens between joists with nails to suit ceiling level required. Battens spacing depends on boards used. Secure platerboard onto the battens using plasterboard fixing nails. You might want to put a layer of rockwool sound insulation between the joists to dampen noise from the floor above.
You can also use proprietary hangers as supplied by British Gypsum. See the site below.
if you screw the plasterboard on it wont pop the plaster, but use the right screws from the builders yard and don't screw them in too far, the batten is a very good idea
use 1/4'' or 3/8'' drywall (for weight ). use 5/8'' or 3/4'' drywall screws (your floor is probally 3/4'') you don't want to go through all the way.Then I would use fiberglass tape (it won't dry up and bubble in the future) Bed skim,float,texture,prime and paint.
You can always use liquid nails. If you can then I would also screw them in a couple of places but liquid nails should work fine. Be sure to get enough glue coverage so that you don't eventually have any sagging going on.
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Answers:
I would screw a batten to either side of the joist 4-5 inches down from the top and then screw plasterboard (plasterboard screws) to them. I have done this in my cottage, leaves inch or two of joist exposed below, Compared to plasterboarding and skimming over the whole of the underside of the joists it is a pain in the **** but if you want original timbers exposed, SUFFER!, like I did! . it's much more time consuming. lol. Oh, and for finishing your beams, danish oil is favourite.
screw a batton just below floor board , nail plaster board to it
Secure battens between joists with nails to suit ceiling level required. Battens spacing depends on boards used. Secure platerboard onto the battens using plasterboard fixing nails. You might want to put a layer of rockwool sound insulation between the joists to dampen noise from the floor above.
You can also use proprietary hangers as supplied by British Gypsum. See the site below.
if you screw the plasterboard on it wont pop the plaster, but use the right screws from the builders yard and don't screw them in too far, the batten is a very good idea
use 1/4'' or 3/8'' drywall (for weight ). use 5/8'' or 3/4'' drywall screws (your floor is probally 3/4'') you don't want to go through all the way.Then I would use fiberglass tape (it won't dry up and bubble in the future) Bed skim,float,texture,prime and paint.
You can always use liquid nails. If you can then I would also screw them in a couple of places but liquid nails should work fine. Be sure to get enough glue coverage so that you don't eventually have any sagging going on.
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