I have just mated my poodles for the first time!?
My little girl shrieked when my lad entered her, is this ok? She was on her 12th day. They have mated twice now, once yesterday and once today. They are both 18 months old. I am now happy to keep them apart for the duration of the rest of her heat. I have good reason to mate them and haven't gone into this lightly. My hubby and I will be grateful for any advice that 'you professionals' can give us regarding how to feed 'Mum' what to look for, what to get in preperation. I do have a library book but my vet says that I wont need it and to relax!
Answers:
unless you plan on keeping the pups your self. if i were you i would fix them. there are more than you could imagine of homeless pets put to sleep every day. there are also many health benifits associated with fixing them.
My little girl shrieked when my lad entered her?
You need help missus!
Mating in Dogs
General Information
Female dogs generally have 2 reproductive cycles each year. This process begins at puberty. Small breeds may start their cycles at 5-6 months of age, while some giant breeds may not cycle until 2 years of age. The average age of puberty is 7-10 months. After 4-9 days of bloody vaginal discharge, the female will accept the male and stand for breeding. This receptive stage may last a few days or as long as 2 weeks. The most commonly used breeding dates are the 9th, 11th, and 13th days from the first vaginal discharge. Repeated breeding 48 hours apart, as long as the female accepts the male produce the best conception rate.
Usually, no assistance is needed for a successful mating, especially if dogs have had previous experience. Occasionally, however, some assistance must be given. The male may need help in mounting and entering the female, or the female may need to be restrained so that she does not harm the male. A muzzle (gauze, nylon stockings, etc.) tied around the female's mouth may be helpful. If trouble is encountered, perhaps the timing is not correct. Double check the dates and consult with your veterinarian.
Near the conclusion of normal mating, the dogs will become "tied" together for up to ½ an hour. Occasionally, the male turns around and the dogs appear "end to end." This is normal and no cause for alarm. If one of the dogs becomes active during this time, gentle restraint is advisable. Do not attempt to forcefully pull the dogs apart, as this may cause injury.
Female dogs should not be bred during the first heat period. Wait until the second or third heat to breed your female.
Since pregnancy represents a considerable strain on the mother, females should not be bred every "season." Acceptable breeding programs include breeding every other heat or breeding during 2 consecutive heats and skipping the third.
If a pregnancy results from the mating, the puppies should be born in approximately 63 days. Begin counting from the first breeding.
If you are considered mating your dog, discuss the matter with your veterinarian. A thorough examination is recommended before breeding to help ensure that your pet is in good physical condition.
Breeding: Most female dogs "go into heat" (estrus) about every 6 or 7 months beginning sometime before their first year of age. It is best to allow the ***** to reach full growth before breeding her. Why put the added stress of forming and nursing a litter of pups while her body is geared toward making her own structures? Always wait until she is fully developed before breeding her; in the large breeds such as the St. Bernard, Great Dane, and Irish Wolfhound, this won't occur until after they are over two years of age.
The ***** is usually ready to stand and hold for the male to breed to her about ten to twelve days into the heat cycle. Start counting days at the first sign of any blood discharge from the vulva. Just remember that every dog is different regarding when she will allow breeding, so keep good records of everything you note regarding dates of first bloody discharge, how much discharge is occurring, how much swelling of the vulva is noticed, and the *****'s attitude and temperament. And here's an important note: You should mark the day you first see any discharge "day one".however, you may have missed a few light flow days. In these cases, what you are calling "day one" may really be day three, four or five! So, when do you bring the male to her for breeding? Do not wait until the tenth day; bring the male to her a few days ahead of time because if she's ready you better breed her now! She will let you know if your timing is right by her willingness or unwillingness to stand for the male. If she's ready, regardless of what number day it is, she will crook her tail off to one side, stand in front of the male, and even back into the male. Just because we think she should breed on a certain day has no influence on her hormonal levels. Try to get the ***** and stud together a number of days and times earlier than that tenth day of bloody discharge. Another good guideline as to when to breed is that often the discharge will turn from a dark, bloody color to a more lighter, almost tan color.
A note about doing a slide smear: So many breeders ask their veterinarians to "do a smear so I know what day to breed her". They are asking the impossible! A "smear" of the vaginal discharge is done by swabbing onto a microscope slide a small amount of the vaginal discharge. Those cells are dried and stained and the types and maturity of those cells are noted. When the preponderance of those cells have lost their nucleii and become more old appearing, the technician can safely say that the peak of the heat cycle is approaching. That's all. In no way can a determination as to the "right time to breed" be made with a high degree of accuracy from a vaginal smear. All your veterinarian or veterinary technician can do is to say "She hasn't reached peak cycle yet" or "It looks like she's about at her peak now" or "I think she is past her peak breeding time now". Anything more specific than that is pretty much just a guess. The best way to know when to breed is to get the male and female dogs together and see if THEY think it's time. Always bring them together sooner than you believe is the peak of her cycle. It is far better to be five days early than five hours late. Remember, she won't be in heat again for half a year!
OK.so she and the stud bred twice the first day and twice the second day and once the third day. Nice going'! There's a great chance she'll become pregnant. The sperm will fertilize the eggs and the fertile eggs will migrate down the two uterine horns looking for a favorable area to attach to the lining of the uterine wall. Attachment will occur a number of days after the breeding (that's why some anti-fertility medications can be given after the breeding. These medications make the uterine lining a hostile area for the fertilized eggs so the eggs can't find an inviting area of the uterine lining. If they do not attach to the uterine lining they eventually degenerate.)
If impregnation into the uterine lining has occurred, your veterinarian will be able to feel the swollen areas along the uterus about the twenty-second to the twenty-fourth day after the last breeding. A good estimate of the number of active areas can be made, too, so you can start lining up all those potential buyers for your pups! The pups are usually ready to enter our world sixty-three days after conception, although small breeds often have shorter gestation periods of only fifty-nine or sixty days. It is best to count days starting from the last known breeding since many bitches will allow breeding to occur for two to four days in a row.
What To Expect When "It's Time".
Let me suggest that you forget about using a thermometer to aid your guess as to when the pups are on the way. Some bitches' temperature will drop from a normal range (101 to 102.5 degrees) to a degree or so below their normal a few hours prior to whelping.but many don't. And if her temperature does drop and no puppies are forthcoming, are you going to rush her into surgery? Of course not. Recording the temperature, and over-estimating its importance, can cause you more turmoil and anxiety than any value taking the temperature may have as a prognosticator of labor, so don't bother with it if you don't want to.
The first sign that the new puppy-family is on the way usually is signaled by the *****'s lack of interest in food about twenty-four hours before whelping. Then you may notice she will lick at her vulva and have slight abdominal cramping. Then the abdominal contractions become more frequent.about every half hour. All of a sudden you may notice a shiny, grayish sac drooping through the vulva; it looks like a gray water balloon. The ***** may walk around with this hanging out and will often open the "water sac" and a clear fluid will run out. The pup's on the way! In most cases the pup will be delivered within an hour of this sac being presented for your viewing pleasure since now the pup is surely in the pelvic canal. The first pup often is the most difficult for the ***** to pass, and she may strain quite hard and even moan a bit. Don't panic yet. (Although, it is a good idea to call your veterinarian and announce proudly "she's havin' 'em!". Now the entire animal hospital staff will be on the alert that you will be calling every fifteen minutes with updates on her progress.) If she hasn't passed the pup within one hour of the "water sac" showing, do call your veterinarian and discuss the need for her to be seen right away to help pass the pup.
When the pup is passed through the pelvic canal and into our world it will be covered in a thin membrane that looks like plastic wrap. If the ***** does not lick and nip this membrane away from the puppy right away, and most do, you should remove it so the pup can breathe. (The pup has about six minutes of "grace period" before it must breathe, otherwise brain damage or death will occur.) Give the mother a few seconds to remove this membrane; if she doesn't, you do it.
You will notice that the pup is attached to a yucky looking mass of tissue by the umbilical cord. You can separate the pup from this blackish-green tissue, which is the afterbirth. (The afterbirth is the tissue that attaches very closely to the lining of the uterus. Through the afterbirth the pup "breathes" and acquires nourishment via the umbilical cord; now that the pup is born, though, there's no need for this equipment any more. Now it's nasty looking and yucky so throw it out.) There is no real benefit for the ***** to eat all the afterbirths so discard them if you wish. In fact, some dogs can get digestive upsets from consuming a large number of afterbirths. Those of you who for some reason want their ***** to eat the afterbirths, that's your choice.
Licking and cleaning the new pup is the *****'s first order of business now that the membrane is removed and the umbilical cord is chewed through (or separated about an inch away from the pup by you). If she ignores the pup, you can take a clean towel and rub the puppy dry; this will stimulate it to breath and it will protest a bit. Ouch.Welcome to our world! While doting over the new pup the ***** will probably start the process over and present another one.here we go again! While the new pup's brothers and sisters are yet to see the light of day, the first pup, having found a nipple, is already having breakfast. (I say breakfast because the vast majority of whelpings occur in the very early hours of predawn darkness!)
In any litter the entire process of whelping can take from two to twenty hours. In Golden Retrievers, for example, they may have three pups in the first hour, take a break for three or four hours, have a few more, take a break, have one, take a break and finish up sometime the next day. All that may be perfectly normal. However, if a ***** is really straining, with contractions coming every minute or so and no pup is presented within half an hour, get the veterinarian on the phone. Often, if the ***** seems to be doing nothing for a few hours and you are sure there are more pups to be delivered, the ***** often can be energized to have more contractions by a brisk walk outside. She may not want to leave the pups but fresh air and a short run or walk will get things started again. Have food and water available for her, too.
Sometimes the litter will be so large, either in numbers of pups or size of pups, that a problem with Uterine Inertia can occur. In these situations the ***** will fail in weak attempts to pass the pups. She may not even show any visible contractions. Here is a good example of why you should keep good records of dates and times of breeding.
If the ***** has progressed to the sixty-fifth day after breeding and still no pups are on the way, there's a problem! If the uterus has been so stretched and fatigued by a large litter or large size of the puppies, she may not be able to pass them. Uterine Inertia also is common when an older ***** has a single fetus that doesn't stimulate the uterus enough to begin contractions. Your veterinarian must be consulted. Medical intervention will be tried first, an x-ray may be taken (don't worry, a single x-ray in full term pups presents practically zero risk) and if medications do not induce labor.it's time for surgery!
Weaning Puppies From Their Mother
Most breeders will not allow pups to nurse from the ***** longer than 5 weeks. They are introduced to a starter or weaning formula at about 24 days of age when the pups will be able to begin eating on their own. One of the best ways to wean puppies is to present them with a semi-liquid nourishment in a shallow pan such as a cookie baking sheet. Gently place the pups at the edge of the food, push their little chins into the food and they will smell it and begin to lick the mixture you prepared. It's really fun to watch them light up at their first taste of puppy formula! Once they get a taste of the food they usually consume it in earnest. This process of starting on puppy weaning formula can begin at three weeks of age and within a week they will be looking for that special treat we call puppy food! Gradually thicken the formula with ground up dry puppy food or begin adding canned puppy food to their weaning mixture. By five weeks of age they should be eating four meals a day of a high quality puppy food. You can break up kibble so it is smaller than packaged or soak it a bit in warm water to soften. It is a good idea to get pups acquainted with both canned and dry food. Some suggested starter formulas will be displayed here soon.
NOTE! Always have fresh and clean water available. Introduce the pups to the water dish as you did to the puppy weaning formula.
It is much better to prepare yourself ahead of time by reading and talking to an experienced breeder if this is your first experience with dog breeding. It is very important to have the male and female dogs thoroughly checked out for breed dispositions for hip dysplasia, eye problems, heart defects or other health aberrations. Breeding dogs that are less than optimally healthy will take you down a very unpleasant road. Be certain that your ***** is wormed or has a negative fecal exam, be certain that the diet is excellent. not just "good". Avoid the notion that you must supplement the diet because of the "stress" on the mother. The real stress nutritionally comes after the pregnancy when the pups are between two and four weeks of age. That's the time they are extracting the largest amounts of nutrients from the mother, and making all that milk can really tap into the bitches' nutrient reserves. Over-supplementing is a mistake. A high quality diet containing large amounts of quality protein and fat is important; high fat, high protein and low carbohydrates (grain) is best.
It is a good idea to get a small postal scale and weigh the new pups daily. After the second day they should gain steadily every day. If you notice a pup that is slower, colder, softer or whinier than the others, take special care of that one. It just may need your help to survive. Each day the pups should put on a bit of weight; one that is not may be a "poor doer" and could need veterinary care.
I am sorry, but what is your good reason for mating your dogs? Are you a breeder? And if you knew what you were doing, you would already know what would be OK, and what wouldn't.Now that is a done deal, can you honestly tell me that you can guarantee that EVERY pup in this litter will have a home? You have just added to our overpopulation problem, not try to make it better by spaying and neutering your pets.. Do your dogs truly represent their breed flawlessly? What about temperament? And what about genetics, and illnesses they carry in their genes for generations? Have you researched all that?Why don't you leave breeding to the true professionals who know what to look for when breeding dogs? It looks to me you have taken this lightly, otherwise you wouldn't be here asking questions..
Just avin my dinner,even the dogs are at it.
your she dog was flat like a bike tyre and he was helping out pumping her up.It should not go flat again for awhile
best of luck
You have bred with your dogs and THEN wanting to know how to look after the b*tch and gather the information.
Why didnt you go into all of this before and ask your vet the feeding requirements? You said you havent gone into it lightly!
Good reason to breed?
They clear of all inherited diseases and faults?
They both pedigree with papers?
They are not related?
You have guaranteed homes?
You have your worming regime set out, specially when puppies are born?
Vet on speed dial?
Money set aside for first vaccinations of puppies?
Very strong fences to protect your little b*tch from marauding males? You male isnt the only one who may want to visit.
Both 18 months old? Not related I hope? I assume you've had them both cleared of hereditary defects? OFA & CERF or Optigen testing, etc.etc? "Shrieking" is not unusual.but going by the number of days is not always accurate and she may be more receptive and less vocal either earlier or later in her cycle. At about 4-5 weeks into the pregnancy, switch her over to puppy food and plan on allowing her to as much as double her food intake the last few weeks.
You say you have not gone into it lightly yet you don't even know the basics?
What 'good reason' (apart from making a few bucks) do you have?
Are both parents tested for SA, PRA and hip scored?
Either you are lying about what the vet said, or your vet is an utter moron.
How will you stop your dog wanting to mate her next season? How will you stop him refusing his food, screaming, howling and yelping to get to her, scrabbling at the doors, escaping, in an effort to get to her?
It sounds very much to me like you are another back yard breeder with no idea who wants to justify breeding a litter of puppies and doing it all wrong. I mean who on earth buys a dog and b1tch to breed with? You buy a b1tch,look around for a suitable compatible show dog to use at stud, pay a stud fee. Then the stud dog owner may be able to help you place the puppies and advise on which to keep yourself.
What is the advantage on keeping one b1tch and one pet quality dog, who, if you keep a b1tch puppy, cannot be used on her because he is her father. So instead of not having gone into it lightly, it turns out that you have done EXACTLY that.
If you need advice about how to look after a pregnant b itch then I think you indeed HAVE gone into this too lightly. I would reseach all the basics before even considering mating the dogs. And I personally can see no "good reason" for adding to the population of unwanted puppies, the usual reason is people want to get easy money. And I would also suggest you change your vet coz that attitude stinks!!
she 'shreiked' as you put it because it was her first mating and she may not have been quite ready for it. I have a breeder friend whos females come into their main fertile state on their 15-17th days! You will need a whelping box..made out of wood..a heat lamp to put over the box..plenty of newspapers and then a white blanket for everyday after the birth. I say white because that helps to spot any blood your girl might be discharging. Its also worth investing in a couple of bottles and teats just in case she has a large litter.or is not a god mum..that way you can help feed the pups. Mum should be on a good food..preferably puppy food as it contains all the extra nutrients she will need during the pregnancy. Other than that..if you need any advice..you could try speaking to a breeder or asking your vet..
You only have a library book? and you say you haven't gone into this lightly, you must be really clever after only reading 1 book!! I have at least 25 dog books + about another 10 on dog genetics and breeding and I would still talk to several breeders before I even considered breeding any of my bitches, I have kept mostly GSD's most of my life and have been saying for that length of time that I would love to breed dogs (be a serious breeder) but I am still thinking and planning and it may never happen even now. it is a hell of a responsibility and a lot of work and not to mention EXPENSIVE! Nobody in their right mind would go out get a dog and a ***** (I echo what others have said I hope they are not brother an sister!) wait until they get to 18mths and then breed them...Sheeeesh what planet are you on??
Why keep them apart? I don't understand why you need to control the matings if both dogs live with you. Leave them to it.
I hope you had both of them wormed and vaccinated, if not please do so now.
Read your book, and a few more. You need a whelping box, and a way of disposing of all the soiled newspaper. Start collecting it now. You need a quiet room, and the box should be in a playpen so the pups can't wander around and get hurt.
Also, start buying extra food every week. Feeding them all will be expensive later.
Advertise the pups through your vets and get a waiting list of prospective owners together. That'll give you some time to interview and vet them before the pups go.
It would have been better for Mum to have waited until after she was 2, and had them both tested to clear them of genetic abnormalities. I don't know what tests are recommended for the breed.
how can you say you have good reason to mate your ***** ,what good reason is there to put you ***** and her pups at risk of death . if you haven't gone into this lightly why are you asking on here for advice you should have sought this before mating your dogs
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Answers:
unless you plan on keeping the pups your self. if i were you i would fix them. there are more than you could imagine of homeless pets put to sleep every day. there are also many health benifits associated with fixing them.
My little girl shrieked when my lad entered her?
You need help missus!
Mating in Dogs
General Information
Female dogs generally have 2 reproductive cycles each year. This process begins at puberty. Small breeds may start their cycles at 5-6 months of age, while some giant breeds may not cycle until 2 years of age. The average age of puberty is 7-10 months. After 4-9 days of bloody vaginal discharge, the female will accept the male and stand for breeding. This receptive stage may last a few days or as long as 2 weeks. The most commonly used breeding dates are the 9th, 11th, and 13th days from the first vaginal discharge. Repeated breeding 48 hours apart, as long as the female accepts the male produce the best conception rate.
Usually, no assistance is needed for a successful mating, especially if dogs have had previous experience. Occasionally, however, some assistance must be given. The male may need help in mounting and entering the female, or the female may need to be restrained so that she does not harm the male. A muzzle (gauze, nylon stockings, etc.) tied around the female's mouth may be helpful. If trouble is encountered, perhaps the timing is not correct. Double check the dates and consult with your veterinarian.
Near the conclusion of normal mating, the dogs will become "tied" together for up to ½ an hour. Occasionally, the male turns around and the dogs appear "end to end." This is normal and no cause for alarm. If one of the dogs becomes active during this time, gentle restraint is advisable. Do not attempt to forcefully pull the dogs apart, as this may cause injury.
Female dogs should not be bred during the first heat period. Wait until the second or third heat to breed your female.
Since pregnancy represents a considerable strain on the mother, females should not be bred every "season." Acceptable breeding programs include breeding every other heat or breeding during 2 consecutive heats and skipping the third.
If a pregnancy results from the mating, the puppies should be born in approximately 63 days. Begin counting from the first breeding.
If you are considered mating your dog, discuss the matter with your veterinarian. A thorough examination is recommended before breeding to help ensure that your pet is in good physical condition.
Breeding: Most female dogs "go into heat" (estrus) about every 6 or 7 months beginning sometime before their first year of age. It is best to allow the ***** to reach full growth before breeding her. Why put the added stress of forming and nursing a litter of pups while her body is geared toward making her own structures? Always wait until she is fully developed before breeding her; in the large breeds such as the St. Bernard, Great Dane, and Irish Wolfhound, this won't occur until after they are over two years of age.
The ***** is usually ready to stand and hold for the male to breed to her about ten to twelve days into the heat cycle. Start counting days at the first sign of any blood discharge from the vulva. Just remember that every dog is different regarding when she will allow breeding, so keep good records of everything you note regarding dates of first bloody discharge, how much discharge is occurring, how much swelling of the vulva is noticed, and the *****'s attitude and temperament. And here's an important note: You should mark the day you first see any discharge "day one".however, you may have missed a few light flow days. In these cases, what you are calling "day one" may really be day three, four or five! So, when do you bring the male to her for breeding? Do not wait until the tenth day; bring the male to her a few days ahead of time because if she's ready you better breed her now! She will let you know if your timing is right by her willingness or unwillingness to stand for the male. If she's ready, regardless of what number day it is, she will crook her tail off to one side, stand in front of the male, and even back into the male. Just because we think she should breed on a certain day has no influence on her hormonal levels. Try to get the ***** and stud together a number of days and times earlier than that tenth day of bloody discharge. Another good guideline as to when to breed is that often the discharge will turn from a dark, bloody color to a more lighter, almost tan color.
A note about doing a slide smear: So many breeders ask their veterinarians to "do a smear so I know what day to breed her". They are asking the impossible! A "smear" of the vaginal discharge is done by swabbing onto a microscope slide a small amount of the vaginal discharge. Those cells are dried and stained and the types and maturity of those cells are noted. When the preponderance of those cells have lost their nucleii and become more old appearing, the technician can safely say that the peak of the heat cycle is approaching. That's all. In no way can a determination as to the "right time to breed" be made with a high degree of accuracy from a vaginal smear. All your veterinarian or veterinary technician can do is to say "She hasn't reached peak cycle yet" or "It looks like she's about at her peak now" or "I think she is past her peak breeding time now". Anything more specific than that is pretty much just a guess. The best way to know when to breed is to get the male and female dogs together and see if THEY think it's time. Always bring them together sooner than you believe is the peak of her cycle. It is far better to be five days early than five hours late. Remember, she won't be in heat again for half a year!
OK.so she and the stud bred twice the first day and twice the second day and once the third day. Nice going'! There's a great chance she'll become pregnant. The sperm will fertilize the eggs and the fertile eggs will migrate down the two uterine horns looking for a favorable area to attach to the lining of the uterine wall. Attachment will occur a number of days after the breeding (that's why some anti-fertility medications can be given after the breeding. These medications make the uterine lining a hostile area for the fertilized eggs so the eggs can't find an inviting area of the uterine lining. If they do not attach to the uterine lining they eventually degenerate.)
If impregnation into the uterine lining has occurred, your veterinarian will be able to feel the swollen areas along the uterus about the twenty-second to the twenty-fourth day after the last breeding. A good estimate of the number of active areas can be made, too, so you can start lining up all those potential buyers for your pups! The pups are usually ready to enter our world sixty-three days after conception, although small breeds often have shorter gestation periods of only fifty-nine or sixty days. It is best to count days starting from the last known breeding since many bitches will allow breeding to occur for two to four days in a row.
What To Expect When "It's Time".
Let me suggest that you forget about using a thermometer to aid your guess as to when the pups are on the way. Some bitches' temperature will drop from a normal range (101 to 102.5 degrees) to a degree or so below their normal a few hours prior to whelping.but many don't. And if her temperature does drop and no puppies are forthcoming, are you going to rush her into surgery? Of course not. Recording the temperature, and over-estimating its importance, can cause you more turmoil and anxiety than any value taking the temperature may have as a prognosticator of labor, so don't bother with it if you don't want to.
The first sign that the new puppy-family is on the way usually is signaled by the *****'s lack of interest in food about twenty-four hours before whelping. Then you may notice she will lick at her vulva and have slight abdominal cramping. Then the abdominal contractions become more frequent.about every half hour. All of a sudden you may notice a shiny, grayish sac drooping through the vulva; it looks like a gray water balloon. The ***** may walk around with this hanging out and will often open the "water sac" and a clear fluid will run out. The pup's on the way! In most cases the pup will be delivered within an hour of this sac being presented for your viewing pleasure since now the pup is surely in the pelvic canal. The first pup often is the most difficult for the ***** to pass, and she may strain quite hard and even moan a bit. Don't panic yet. (Although, it is a good idea to call your veterinarian and announce proudly "she's havin' 'em!". Now the entire animal hospital staff will be on the alert that you will be calling every fifteen minutes with updates on her progress.) If she hasn't passed the pup within one hour of the "water sac" showing, do call your veterinarian and discuss the need for her to be seen right away to help pass the pup.
When the pup is passed through the pelvic canal and into our world it will be covered in a thin membrane that looks like plastic wrap. If the ***** does not lick and nip this membrane away from the puppy right away, and most do, you should remove it so the pup can breathe. (The pup has about six minutes of "grace period" before it must breathe, otherwise brain damage or death will occur.) Give the mother a few seconds to remove this membrane; if she doesn't, you do it.
You will notice that the pup is attached to a yucky looking mass of tissue by the umbilical cord. You can separate the pup from this blackish-green tissue, which is the afterbirth. (The afterbirth is the tissue that attaches very closely to the lining of the uterus. Through the afterbirth the pup "breathes" and acquires nourishment via the umbilical cord; now that the pup is born, though, there's no need for this equipment any more. Now it's nasty looking and yucky so throw it out.) There is no real benefit for the ***** to eat all the afterbirths so discard them if you wish. In fact, some dogs can get digestive upsets from consuming a large number of afterbirths. Those of you who for some reason want their ***** to eat the afterbirths, that's your choice.
Licking and cleaning the new pup is the *****'s first order of business now that the membrane is removed and the umbilical cord is chewed through (or separated about an inch away from the pup by you). If she ignores the pup, you can take a clean towel and rub the puppy dry; this will stimulate it to breath and it will protest a bit. Ouch.Welcome to our world! While doting over the new pup the ***** will probably start the process over and present another one.here we go again! While the new pup's brothers and sisters are yet to see the light of day, the first pup, having found a nipple, is already having breakfast. (I say breakfast because the vast majority of whelpings occur in the very early hours of predawn darkness!)
In any litter the entire process of whelping can take from two to twenty hours. In Golden Retrievers, for example, they may have three pups in the first hour, take a break for three or four hours, have a few more, take a break, have one, take a break and finish up sometime the next day. All that may be perfectly normal. However, if a ***** is really straining, with contractions coming every minute or so and no pup is presented within half an hour, get the veterinarian on the phone. Often, if the ***** seems to be doing nothing for a few hours and you are sure there are more pups to be delivered, the ***** often can be energized to have more contractions by a brisk walk outside. She may not want to leave the pups but fresh air and a short run or walk will get things started again. Have food and water available for her, too.
Sometimes the litter will be so large, either in numbers of pups or size of pups, that a problem with Uterine Inertia can occur. In these situations the ***** will fail in weak attempts to pass the pups. She may not even show any visible contractions. Here is a good example of why you should keep good records of dates and times of breeding.
If the ***** has progressed to the sixty-fifth day after breeding and still no pups are on the way, there's a problem! If the uterus has been so stretched and fatigued by a large litter or large size of the puppies, she may not be able to pass them. Uterine Inertia also is common when an older ***** has a single fetus that doesn't stimulate the uterus enough to begin contractions. Your veterinarian must be consulted. Medical intervention will be tried first, an x-ray may be taken (don't worry, a single x-ray in full term pups presents practically zero risk) and if medications do not induce labor.it's time for surgery!
Weaning Puppies From Their Mother
Most breeders will not allow pups to nurse from the ***** longer than 5 weeks. They are introduced to a starter or weaning formula at about 24 days of age when the pups will be able to begin eating on their own. One of the best ways to wean puppies is to present them with a semi-liquid nourishment in a shallow pan such as a cookie baking sheet. Gently place the pups at the edge of the food, push their little chins into the food and they will smell it and begin to lick the mixture you prepared. It's really fun to watch them light up at their first taste of puppy formula! Once they get a taste of the food they usually consume it in earnest. This process of starting on puppy weaning formula can begin at three weeks of age and within a week they will be looking for that special treat we call puppy food! Gradually thicken the formula with ground up dry puppy food or begin adding canned puppy food to their weaning mixture. By five weeks of age they should be eating four meals a day of a high quality puppy food. You can break up kibble so it is smaller than packaged or soak it a bit in warm water to soften. It is a good idea to get pups acquainted with both canned and dry food. Some suggested starter formulas will be displayed here soon.
NOTE! Always have fresh and clean water available. Introduce the pups to the water dish as you did to the puppy weaning formula.
It is much better to prepare yourself ahead of time by reading and talking to an experienced breeder if this is your first experience with dog breeding. It is very important to have the male and female dogs thoroughly checked out for breed dispositions for hip dysplasia, eye problems, heart defects or other health aberrations. Breeding dogs that are less than optimally healthy will take you down a very unpleasant road. Be certain that your ***** is wormed or has a negative fecal exam, be certain that the diet is excellent. not just "good". Avoid the notion that you must supplement the diet because of the "stress" on the mother. The real stress nutritionally comes after the pregnancy when the pups are between two and four weeks of age. That's the time they are extracting the largest amounts of nutrients from the mother, and making all that milk can really tap into the bitches' nutrient reserves. Over-supplementing is a mistake. A high quality diet containing large amounts of quality protein and fat is important; high fat, high protein and low carbohydrates (grain) is best.
It is a good idea to get a small postal scale and weigh the new pups daily. After the second day they should gain steadily every day. If you notice a pup that is slower, colder, softer or whinier than the others, take special care of that one. It just may need your help to survive. Each day the pups should put on a bit of weight; one that is not may be a "poor doer" and could need veterinary care.
I am sorry, but what is your good reason for mating your dogs? Are you a breeder? And if you knew what you were doing, you would already know what would be OK, and what wouldn't.Now that is a done deal, can you honestly tell me that you can guarantee that EVERY pup in this litter will have a home? You have just added to our overpopulation problem, not try to make it better by spaying and neutering your pets.. Do your dogs truly represent their breed flawlessly? What about temperament? And what about genetics, and illnesses they carry in their genes for generations? Have you researched all that?Why don't you leave breeding to the true professionals who know what to look for when breeding dogs? It looks to me you have taken this lightly, otherwise you wouldn't be here asking questions..
Just avin my dinner,even the dogs are at it.
your she dog was flat like a bike tyre and he was helping out pumping her up.It should not go flat again for awhile
best of luck
You have bred with your dogs and THEN wanting to know how to look after the b*tch and gather the information.
Why didnt you go into all of this before and ask your vet the feeding requirements? You said you havent gone into it lightly!
Good reason to breed?
They clear of all inherited diseases and faults?
They both pedigree with papers?
They are not related?
You have guaranteed homes?
You have your worming regime set out, specially when puppies are born?
Vet on speed dial?
Money set aside for first vaccinations of puppies?
Very strong fences to protect your little b*tch from marauding males? You male isnt the only one who may want to visit.
Both 18 months old? Not related I hope? I assume you've had them both cleared of hereditary defects? OFA & CERF or Optigen testing, etc.etc? "Shrieking" is not unusual.but going by the number of days is not always accurate and she may be more receptive and less vocal either earlier or later in her cycle. At about 4-5 weeks into the pregnancy, switch her over to puppy food and plan on allowing her to as much as double her food intake the last few weeks.
You say you have not gone into it lightly yet you don't even know the basics?
What 'good reason' (apart from making a few bucks) do you have?
Are both parents tested for SA, PRA and hip scored?
Either you are lying about what the vet said, or your vet is an utter moron.
How will you stop your dog wanting to mate her next season? How will you stop him refusing his food, screaming, howling and yelping to get to her, scrabbling at the doors, escaping, in an effort to get to her?
It sounds very much to me like you are another back yard breeder with no idea who wants to justify breeding a litter of puppies and doing it all wrong. I mean who on earth buys a dog and b1tch to breed with? You buy a b1tch,look around for a suitable compatible show dog to use at stud, pay a stud fee. Then the stud dog owner may be able to help you place the puppies and advise on which to keep yourself.
What is the advantage on keeping one b1tch and one pet quality dog, who, if you keep a b1tch puppy, cannot be used on her because he is her father. So instead of not having gone into it lightly, it turns out that you have done EXACTLY that.
If you need advice about how to look after a pregnant b itch then I think you indeed HAVE gone into this too lightly. I would reseach all the basics before even considering mating the dogs. And I personally can see no "good reason" for adding to the population of unwanted puppies, the usual reason is people want to get easy money. And I would also suggest you change your vet coz that attitude stinks!!
she 'shreiked' as you put it because it was her first mating and she may not have been quite ready for it. I have a breeder friend whos females come into their main fertile state on their 15-17th days! You will need a whelping box..made out of wood..a heat lamp to put over the box..plenty of newspapers and then a white blanket for everyday after the birth. I say white because that helps to spot any blood your girl might be discharging. Its also worth investing in a couple of bottles and teats just in case she has a large litter.or is not a god mum..that way you can help feed the pups. Mum should be on a good food..preferably puppy food as it contains all the extra nutrients she will need during the pregnancy. Other than that..if you need any advice..you could try speaking to a breeder or asking your vet..
You only have a library book? and you say you haven't gone into this lightly, you must be really clever after only reading 1 book!! I have at least 25 dog books + about another 10 on dog genetics and breeding and I would still talk to several breeders before I even considered breeding any of my bitches, I have kept mostly GSD's most of my life and have been saying for that length of time that I would love to breed dogs (be a serious breeder) but I am still thinking and planning and it may never happen even now. it is a hell of a responsibility and a lot of work and not to mention EXPENSIVE! Nobody in their right mind would go out get a dog and a ***** (I echo what others have said I hope they are not brother an sister!) wait until they get to 18mths and then breed them...Sheeeesh what planet are you on??
Why keep them apart? I don't understand why you need to control the matings if both dogs live with you. Leave them to it.
I hope you had both of them wormed and vaccinated, if not please do so now.
Read your book, and a few more. You need a whelping box, and a way of disposing of all the soiled newspaper. Start collecting it now. You need a quiet room, and the box should be in a playpen so the pups can't wander around and get hurt.
Also, start buying extra food every week. Feeding them all will be expensive later.
Advertise the pups through your vets and get a waiting list of prospective owners together. That'll give you some time to interview and vet them before the pups go.
It would have been better for Mum to have waited until after she was 2, and had them both tested to clear them of genetic abnormalities. I don't know what tests are recommended for the breed.
how can you say you have good reason to mate your ***** ,what good reason is there to put you ***** and her pups at risk of death . if you haven't gone into this lightly why are you asking on here for advice you should have sought this before mating your dogs
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