Anybody know how i can stop my to siberian husky from pulling ive tested all leads and they dont seem to work?

anybody know how to stop my two siberian huskys from pulling when on a lead ive tested all kinds of leads and non seem to work

Answers:
muzzle lead

you know, the ones on the nose
they hate em and i assure you he wont pull then!
Have you tried to change their genes ? That is probably the source of the problem.
Better training not the lead
Stop each time he pulls. It takes ages but they learn eventually.
body harnesses work well on dogs that pull. choke chains or walk them seperatley.
You need to have lessons in an obedience class and take the dogs as well.
it will be rough at first because pulling is their purpose, but voice commands can be taught.
But if you are going to voice command them to sit or heel, which is the desired behavior, you will also nee to give them a game where their pulling makes them feel successful.
Dogs learn best when they are having fun with and getting lots of praise from their people.
take them to obedience classes if not just keep working at home with them and maybe it will work eventually. good luck!
are thay not supposed to pull
HUSKY'S ARE SUPPOSED TO PULL ARE'NT THEY ?
ISNT IT THERE NATURE ?
ISNT THAT WHY THEY USE THEM IN THE SNOW TO PULL SLEIGH'S ?
A trainer once told me that when you are walking a dog and he starts to pull, do a 360 and start walking in the other direction. When he pulls again, do the same thing. The idea is to train the dog to walk beside you . You are the master. You may have to repeat this several times. But it works.
Pulling what?
This is the technique to teach a dog, from puppyhood, or from an advanced age, how not to pull you on his leash, when you are walking him. Never have a taut leash while casually walking a dog.

Steps
Decide firmly that you are the boss. Remember that this is a life or death cause: if the dog pulls you on a slippery surface your head could smash on the pavement. When you are older or hungover the dog will have superior strength, even if he looks little right now.
Buy a fine-linked, tight choke chain.one with enough room around his neck that you can slip two fingers through when not taut.but not too much more room or it won't work.
Practise in your living room first. Always keep the dog on your left side. Step forward with the left leg, in a cheerful voice, saying "Rover. Let's go!" Make happy vocals and keep eye contact.
Suddenly, quickly, say "HEEL!" and jerk the choke. He will stop. Say "Good boy!/Good girl!" and then step off again with your left foot first, cheerfully saying "Let's Go!" The dog will heel fine if you make happy noises.
Repeat above. Do it outside. Make it incumbent upon the dog to keep up with your command. Don't facilitate him.
On further walks, randomly alternate the following: (a) the short fast jerk on the choke chain while saying "Heel!" with the (b) verbal command "heel" without the coinciding choke. You should expect the same behaviour from the dog with or without the choking part: that he makes to stop. Praise this stopping/slowing behaviour equally, whether it is accompanied by the choke or not.
Don't let him actually stop. He is making to stop but you keep walking and praising. What you are praising is the fact that he is breaking his fast stride on the word "heel."
Now that he is slowing with the word "heel:" (loudly and forcefully uttered.but only ONCE.)Never say Heel more than once per decision to heel. The next thing out of your mouth is "UH UH!" accompanied by a jerk on the choke.
If you repeat Heel too many times he will be inured to it.it will become white noise to him. Instead..say Heel once, if he doesn't alter his quick pace, say "Uh UH!" and choke him.
Eventually try him out with just two verbals, no choke: "Heel!.he doesn't slow."Uh UH!"
When he obeys, teach him the fine points of walking, start replacing "Good boy!" with "Good Slow!" "Slow" Good slow."



Tips
Lots of eye contact and upbeat praise. He wants you to like him. Soon he will Slow on the command "slow!" and he will slow on "heel" and he will watch his *** when he hears your loud "Uh UH!"
Make sure your leash always has a slackness on it. Do not let him pull it taut.
If your dog is bigger and doesn't seem to mind getting choked, a pinch collar can be much more effective.



Warnings
It is possible to collapse your dog's trachea with a choke chain. If you do not know how to fit and use a choke chain, do not use one!
Always put the choke on him when doing training and ceremonially replace it with the regular collar when the 15 mins per day training is over.
If the dog is older or stubborn and the above isn't working..make him sit and stay on the sidewalk for an uncomfortably long time. Try him again. If after two long sit stays, he isn't getting the picture put him back in the house and you walk by yourself happily for 5 minutes outside. Then try him again. Be more stubborn than he is.
Don't overtrain. End the 15 mins on a happy success moment. Don't end it when he is screwing up. Set the bar lower if you have to, in order for the session to end after 15 minutes maximum on a successful note.
Don't put the choke on him upside down. Test it with your fingers first to see if it is releasing when you slacken it.
Never put your dog in a crate with a choke collar on!
Don't "punish" your dog with the choke collar. Positive reinforcement (the praise and treats) have more to do with successful training than the choke collar. Its main purpose is to 1) signal to the dog that it's time to "work" and 2) provide control if absolutely needed. If a choke collar seems mean, an alternative might be the "Gentle Leader" form of harness.



Things You'll Need
fine mesh choke chain not too long. Only two fingers should slip through when not choking the dog. Put it on right side up!
Try chain collars. If put on correctly (make a P of the collar facing you before putting on the dog). You might also want to try retractable leads that allow you to control the space between you and the dog. A retractable lead should have a strong handle and a web lead. Then teach your dogs basic obedience either by book or by finding a trainer - it's never too late! Good luck.
That's what they do isn't it?

You could get a sleigh to go with them, save on your train fare.
Wow! That's like asking a horse not to run isn't it. Husky's are bread to pull sleds. It's what they do. It might take a lot of training, a whole lot of good, kind training to get your problem solved. But have you considered going with the flow and finding a way to let your husky pull something? A sled, a dog cart, anything. I've heard these dogs just love to pull things!
Funniest question yet, why get huskies if you don't want them to pull? Goes against their nature, its like asking an eagle not to fly!
You can teach him but never forget, it's the breed's quality. That what he or she is bred for. To pull and to run! You probably also have problems when he/she's loose, that she is likely to run away. It's not you, it's mother nature. The best solution is to go to the syberian husky club and see if they have courses or advice on what you can do to make you and your dog happy. Nasty leashes might solve it temporarely, but you're actually punishing him/her for what she's bred to do.
work out and become stronger than him and when he stops pulling give him a treat
Try a Gentle Leader: http://www.sitstay.com/store/equip/gentl.
This works on the same principal of horse halters - if the dog pulls, his head goes to the side. They soon learn to heal & walk nicely beside you.

There are also anti-pulling harnesses, but this halter method would probably work best for you, since you have Siberian Huskies. This breed would doubtfully quit pulling even if a harness cut into it's body! The urge to pull is strongly bred into them. I hope this helps!
Training Training Training.
You have a breed of dog that has been selectively bred to pull a sled all day and sleep out in the snow at night and you want it to do what?
Part of your problem is your are asking a dog to do exactly the opsite of what they are bred to do.
So you are going to have to put in lots of training time with this dog.
If you do not know how to properly use a choke or prong collar have a trainer fit one on your dog and teach you how to use it.
They will work but you will have to work on it.
I recommend a trainer to give you a lesson or to on how to control the dog and then follow that up with lots of walking work on your own.
hit them over their heads with a lump of wood that will stop them pulling
Hi,

You can find two exercises for this at:

http://www.dog-training-tutorial.com/dog.
The Gentle Leader works great but you also need to incorporate obedience training.
I too had that problem until I bought easyway collars (www.newtrix.com). they are like head halter things except that instead of latching them under the chin ( causing harm to the neck ) they latch at the back fo the head so when they pull their head is pulled back. it can snap into a leash or use the latch part as the leash

Instead of hooking under the dog’s chin, twisting his neck,their ingenious “push-pulley” exerts a gentle pressure behind the dog’s head. Your dog automatically leans back into the pressure and stops pulling! The collar only restrains your dog when he struggles against it, relaxing when he stops
The leads have nothing to do with it. I've recently trained my Pit bull-lab mix to stop pulling. I have him on a harness, for more control over his movement. You need to train them individually. Start your trip at the front door, every time your dog pulls, call out a command such as "stop", "come", etc., and completely stop, making sure the dog comes back to you. Make sure when you say your command, you say it when the pulling occurs, and call the dog back to you. Praise the dog for coming back. With my dog, he eventually learned that when he pulled, and I said come, he had to come back to me. But further on, he learned the more he pulled, the more he had to stop and come back to me, instead of getting where he wanted to go. So eventually he stopped pulling as he realized the less he did it, the quicker he reached his destination. Hope this helps.
My dog has husky in him too and the only thing that I have found that truly works is a Halti or Gentle leader. Go here for more info. http://www.premier.com/pages.cfm?id=29.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/pr.
http://www.companyofanimals.co.uk/halti..

http://www.doglogic.com/halter.htm.
yep thats a common problem . a sure thing to fix that is simple
> 1 - 20 foot tow chain
> 6 - 25 lb concrete blocks
> 1 - old car tire (shock absorber)
______________________________.
> all you got to do is attach tow chain to dogs neck very tight
but not to tight . now attach the old car tire and concrete blocks to the other end of the tow chain . let your doggy drag this around for 3 weeks . now your ready .any lead will work now
> i gurantee
Training
Northern Breeds are supposed to pull thats what they are bred for, however i symapthize I own three Alaskan Malamutes and I know its no fun to be pulled for a walk. My suggestion is this, negative re-enforcement. I was taught that northeen breeds are trained differently than other dogs.

Basically what you dog is walk one dog at a time, until trained. You walk and if the dog pulls you push him up against a wall with a shove. Then stay then using the would heel till he calms down, every time he breaks the rule shove him into the wall again and pin him there, using heel. These guys are smart they dont like being pushed around hence why its called negative re enforcement. but they catch on fast, took a week with each of our guys now they walk checking their speeds looking over their shoulders and listening to me.
Well. Training a husky to stop pulling is difficult. They are born and bred to pull, so teaching them to stop is a real uphill battle. We have owned 9 huskies and only had mild sucess with one dog whom we tried to train to walk nicely on leash as well as pull a sled. He does ok walking, but he'd still rather pull and we've never gotten any of them to heel. If you do find a good way, let us all know.

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