What parts/tools to build my own custom bmx bike?

Apart from the obvious parts (wheels/hubs/frame etc)
Could anyone tell me ALL the parts I would need, and the tools to do the job?

Answers:
Let me say right off the bat, the above answerer mentioned 'pliers'. Pliers have no place in a bike mechanic's toolbox, whatever you may tempted to use pliers for, there is a better tool for teh job. Pliers are the hacks way of doing things, and iwll just leabe you with mangled and maladjusted bike parts. Anyway, on to the show.

To build a complete BMX bike from scratch you will need:
1. A frame (take careful note of a few things: which type of bottom bracket you have, which type of headset the frame accepts, which size axle the dropouts accept, and which type of cable routing the frame is set up for).

2.A Headset (A bmx bike may use a standard 1 1/8" headset, and internal 1 1/8" headset, or an integrated 1 1/8" headset. Pay attention because an internal and an integrated headset are two different things and they arenot interchangeable. All 1 1/8" BMX headsets are threadless. Also, some old school BMX bikes may use a 1" threaded headset, but they haven't been used on a BMX frame in a long time).

3. A stem that is compatible with a 1 1/8" threadless headset, and a top cap bolt

4.Handlebars, with appropriate grips and bar ends.

5.Brake lever

6.Forks with a threadless steerer tube (Make note that BMX forks can have two different size dropouts either 3/8" also identified as 10mm or 14mm. This is very important because it will determine which typeof front hub you need to use. A 3/8"/10mm axle can fit in a 14mm dropout with the aid of an adaptor, but a 14mm axle cannot fit in a 3/8" dropout).

7.Cranks with the appropriate bottom bracket cups, bearings, spindle and spacers (I'm not going to go into the intracacies of BMX bottom brackets, I could, and have, gone on forever about this topic, so I'll limit it to this. There are three basic types of bottom brackets found on modern BMX frames: U.S./Standard/Pro Size, Euro, and press fit. Just make sure that the frame you have and the bottom bracket and cranks you have are the same. For example, if your frames takes a euro bottom bracket, then your cranks should also be euro cranks. This is all oversimplified, but you it's enough to get you up and building).

8.Pedals which come in two basic varieties based on spindle size. Pedals with 1/2" spindles fit 1 piece cranks and pedals with 9/16" spindles fit 3 piece cranks.

9.Seat, seat post and seat clamp. Seat possts come in a few sizes, so choose the one that is compatible with your frame.

10. Brake calipers. Most likely, if you have freestyle BMX then you will have 990 mounts which means you will need U brakes. However, if you have a racing bike then you will have canti mounts which means you'll need V-Brakes.

11.Brake Cables. Your frame will dicate which type of cables you'll need and how they're routed. Dual rear brake cables are great if your frame has the mounts for them, otherwise you may have cable stops for a single cable routing. If you have a gyro (detangler, gyro is Ody's copyrighted name, but it's the one everyone uses), then you'll also need a different type of cable. Your frame will dictate which cables you need is the short version of the story. You'll also need a straddle hanger/cable as well.

12.Wheels/Tires/Tubes. You'll definetly need a set of wheels, and the choices are absolutely endless. I don't have space to get into it here, but remember that 99% of REAR bmx wheels use a 14mm axle. Front wheels, as I mentioned under forks can have either 3/8" (10mm) or 14mm axles. Your rear wheel will need either a cassette or a flip/flop/threaded hub with a freewheel.

13. A chainring. Micro gearing (33 teeth and below) has become really popular over the last few years, because it's lighter and stays out of the way during grinding tricks.

14.Options. There are many optional BMX parts you may or may not want on your bike. That may not seem optional, but brakes are optional and quite a few riders opt not to ride them for many reasons, practical and political. Pegs for grinding, and pegs also come in either 14mm or 3/8" depending on your hubs. Detanglers (aka a gyro) so you can spin the bars, but over the lasy few years, linear brake cables also let you spin the bars without the hassle of setting up a gyro.

As for tools, you'll need a 1/4" hex, 5mm hex, 7/32" hex,6mm hex, a 14mm deep socket,a 15mm deep socket, a 19mm deep socket, a 9/16" pedal wrench, brake cable cutters, the red spoke key, two tire levers, an oversize 3/16" chainbreaker, grease, chain lube and some cable ties. That should do it.
Set of combination spanners, set of screwdivers, hammer, set of allen keys, pliers, small adjustable wrench, chain link tool, chain, sprockets, cables, brake calipers, brake pads and don't forget oil and a bit of grease and a pump!
If you want the best, you have to buy name brand. S&M, Haro, Redline, Trek, DK, GT, Advent, Free Agent, Odyssey, and many others. Find their websites and check out their parts.
Been riding and doing my own bike maintenance for ages on various bikes. BMX, MTB and road. Not a mechanic but built wheels etc so not a newbie.

Fairly comprehensive answer posted already. All I have to add is:

If you want a custom bike it is likely going to be cheaper to do by buying something and THEN customising it. There are massive amounts of bikes available that will suit.

Basically building a bike is something I would do only if there wasn't something out there already. I would always tend to buy and replace several components.
Stem/pedals/brakes/shocks/rims. whatever.

By the way, I find pliers useful for removing slack from gear/brake cables before tightening them. The adjustment screws are not often capable of taking it all up. Just a thought.

Good Luck.

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